Massarda is an ancient white grape variety from western Liguria, also known by the synonyms Tabacca and, in some areas, Mortolese. The earliest documented references date back to the nineteenth century, when it was mainly found in the Sanremo and Ventimiglia areas and in the valleys of the Imperia region. The name Tabacca has sometimes been linked to the island of Tabarca, but the origin of the name remains tied to local tradition. The vine is characterised by conical bunches, often with several wings, of medium length and medium to large size; the berries are medium-sized, ovoid or oblong in shape, with a green-yellow skin that may take on golden hues when ripe, and pale-coloured flesh with a soft texture. The mature leaf has a wedge-shaped to pentagonal outline, generally divided into five or seven lobes, with an open petiole sinus and a U-shaped base. Cultivation has historically been concentrated in the far west of Liguria, from Sanremo to Ventimiglia, particularly between San Biagio della Cima, Soldano, Dolceacqua and the hills of the Imperia area. The grapes, characterised by high acidity, produce dry, fresh and savoury white wines with a delicate yet interesting bouquet, offering good structure and ageing potential. Under favourable conditions, they display good ageing potential and a pleasant depth of flavour. A notable feature is the presence of old, ungrafted vines that survived phylloxera, often trained using the traditional ‘alberello’ method.
